Skip to main content
Energy Review

EV Charging Cost Calculator

This calculator estimates a charge from the usable battery capacity, state-of-charge change, charging losses and the unit rate entered.

Pick a car, set the charge you actually do, and add your unit rate. The calculator shows what the charge costs, what it costs per mile, and how much energy your meter records rather than how much your car reports.

Affiliate
Thinking about switching to Octopus?

Use our referral link, and we'll both get £50 credit once your switch is complete.

Existing customer? Find out how you can benefit too. T&Cs apply (only one switching offer per household)

Your car and your charge
Results update as you type

Then edit the two figures below to match your own car.

Use the usable capacity stated for your car.

Your car's trip computer shows this.

Use your off-peak rate if you charge overnight.

Editable 10% site assumption. Replace it with evidence for your car and charger.

This charge

38.7 kWh from the meter

34.8 kWh into the battery. Add your unit rate above to see the cost.

Cost of this charge
Cost per mile
Range added
125 miles
Paid for at the meter
38.7 kWh
34.8 kWh reached the battery
Tip:The two energy figures are deliberately different. Your car reports what reached the battery; your meter records what left the wall, and the gap is the charging loss. Bills are settled on the meter figure, so that is the one the cost is worked out from.

The kWh your car reports is not the kWh you pay for

Battery energy and metered energy use different measurement boundaries, so they are kept separate throughout the calculation.

Your car reports the energy that arrived in the battery. Your electricity meter records the energy that left the wall. Between the two sit the onboard charger converting AC to DC, resistance in the cable, and battery conditioning. The size of that difference is the editable charging-loss input; this page does not claim one value for every car and charger.

The cost is therefore calculated from estimated metered energy, not battery energy. Replace the loss input with evidence for the charging setup you are assessing.

How the unit rate changes the result

The cost changes directly with the unit rate entered. If a tariff has more than one rate, use the rate that applies to the modelled charge.

A single calculation cannot mix an off-peak part with a peak-rate part. Run the portions separately if a charge crosses tariff bands.

To see what the rates actually look like where you live, the price cap by region page gives the standard-rate ceiling, and when to use electricity shows the hours that are typically cheapest and cleanest.

Home charging against public charging

This calculator starts from a unit rate entered by the reader. For a public charge, use the price and energy boundary stated by that charging network rather than a domestic tariff.

If the advertised price applies to energy delivered by the charger, set the loss input to zero so the calculator costs the same boundary. Check the network's own price terms before comparing it with a home-meter result.

What this calculator assumes

The preset capacities and efficiencies are illustrative site inputs, not measured averages for body styles or specific models. Replace both with your vehicle's usable capacity and long-term efficiency.

The annual estimate holds your unit rate constant for twelve months. That is this site's assumption for the purpose of the estimate, and not a published forecast. If the entered rate changes, rerun it.

An annual result is only as representative as the efficiency entered, so use a long-term figure if available. Full workings for every calculator on this site are on the methodology page.

Frequently asked questions

How much does it cost to charge an electric car at home in the UK?

Enter the usable battery capacity, starting and finishing state of charge, charging-loss assumption and the unit rate you actually pay. The calculator derives energy into the battery, energy billed at the meter and the charge cost without substituting a current or “typical” tariff.

Why is the calculator’s kWh figure higher than my car’s?

Because they measure different boundaries. The calculator treats the car figure as energy reaching the battery and grosses it up by the loss percentage you enter to estimate energy at the meter. Replace the editable loss assumption with evidence for your own car and charger.

What is a realistic miles per kWh figure?

Use your car’s own long-term trip-computer figure over the period you want to represent. The preset values are editable illustrations, not measured averages for vehicle types.

Should I use my standard rate or an off-peak EV rate?

Use the unit rate that actually applies during the charging period. Do not enter an off-peak rate unless the whole modelled charge is billed at that rate.

Does the annual figure account for future price changes?

No. It holds the unit rate you enter constant for twelve months. That is a site calculation assumption, not a published forecast.

Other calculators

Rob Gibbs

Written by

Rob Gibbs

Hi, I'm Rob, and I run Energy-Review.co.uk. I initially started this project in 2018 when I was looking to switch energy suppliers and found there wasn't a website that provided simple, data-backed reviews on all the suppliers available. Since then, I have spent a lot of time (too much, some may say!) looking at all publicly available data about each supplier and writing reviews using this information. These reviews are updated as regularly as possible, and any data is backed up by a source where necessary. I have also started writing guides on various energy-related topics, which hopefully you will find useful. If you find any issues, please use our contact form to let us know.

Comments

Leave a comment

We publish your name and comment. Your email is never published and is used only if we need to reply. We also store a one-way hashed form of your IP address to detect spam. See our privacy policy.