EV Charging Cost Calculator
Charging an electric car at home is usually the cheapest way to fuel it, but the figure people quote each other varies enormously — and almost all of that variation is the tariff rather than the car.
Pick a car, set the charge you actually do, and add your unit rate. The calculator shows what the charge costs, what it costs per mile, and how much energy your meter records rather than how much your car reports.
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Then edit the two figures below to match your own car.
Usable, not gross — usually a few kWh lower.
Your car's trip computer shows this.
Use your off-peak rate if you charge overnight.
About 10% on a home charger. Rapid chargers lose less.
38.7 kWh from the meter
34.8 kWh into the battery. Add your unit rate above to see the cost.
The kWh your car reports is not the kWh you pay for
This is the single most common error in EV cost calculations, and it runs one way: it always makes charging look cheaper than it is.
Your car reports the energy that arrived in the battery. Your electricity meter records the energy that left the wall. Between the two sit the onboard charger converting AC to DC, resistance in the cable, and the battery management system warming or cooling the pack while it charges. On a home AC charger that gap is typically around a tenth of the total.
So a charge that puts 35 kWh into the battery draws closer to 39 kWh through the meter. At 26p that is a pound of difference on a single charge, and several times a week over a year it stops being trivial. Rapid DC chargers lose less, because the conversion happens in the charger rather than the car.
Why the tariff matters more than the car
Run the same car through the calculator at an overnight EV rate and at a standard variable rate and the annual figure can differ by a factor of three. No difference between two electric cars comes close to that.
That is why the useful question is not which car is cheapest to charge but whether you can move your charging into a cheap window. A car that sits on a driveway overnight is close to an ideal load for a time-of-use tariff — large, flexible, and completely indifferent to when it happens.
To see what the rates actually look like where you live, the price cap by region page gives the standard-rate ceiling, and when to use electricity shows the hours that are typically cheapest and cleanest.
Home charging against public charging
This calculator is built for home charging, where you pay your own domestic unit rate. Public charging is priced by the network and is usually several times higher — a rapid charger rate is set commercially rather than by your supplier, and the price cap does not apply to it.
You can still use the calculator for a public charge by entering the network's advertised price per kWh as the unit rate and dropping the losses figure, since a DC rapid charger bills the energy it delivers rather than what your house draws. Compare that result with your home figure and the gap is the real cost of not charging at home.
What this calculator assumes
The presets are typical usable capacities and real-world efficiency for each body style, not any specific model — they are a starting point to edit, and your own car's trip computer beats them.
The annual estimate holds your unit rate constant for twelve months. That is this site's assumption for the purpose of the estimate, made on 7 August 2026, and not a published forecast. There is no reliable public forward price series for domestic electricity, and a calculator that invents one silently is worse than one that admits it has not. If rates move, rerun it.
Efficiency also varies with the season by more than most people expect. A car managing 4.0 miles per kWh in July can drop below 3.0 in January, so an annual figure built from a summer average will read low. Full workings for every calculator on this site are on the methodology page.
Frequently asked questions
How much does it cost to charge an electric car at home in the UK?
It depends almost entirely on your unit rate. A 58 kWh car charged from 20% to 80% takes about 35 kWh into the battery and roughly 39 kWh through the meter once charging losses are counted. On a 7p overnight EV rate that is around £2.70; on a 26p standard rate it is around £10. The car has barely changed the answer — the tariff has.
Why is the calculator’s kWh figure higher than my car’s?
Because they are measuring different things. Your car reports the energy that reached the battery. Your meter records the energy that left the wall, and the difference is lost in the onboard charger, the cable and battery conditioning. On home AC charging that gap is usually around 10%. You are billed on the meter figure, so that is the one the cost is worked out from.
What is a realistic miles per kWh figure?
Most family electric cars manage 3.0 to 4.0 miles per kWh over a year, with small cars at the top of that range and large SUVs and vans below it. Winter is materially worse than summer — cold batteries and cabin heating can cut real-world efficiency by a quarter or more. Your car’s own long-term trip computer average is a better input than any published figure.
Should I use my standard rate or an off-peak EV rate?
Use whichever you actually charge on. Dedicated EV tariffs offer a low overnight window, and if you charge inside that window your cost per mile falls dramatically. If you charge whenever the car is plugged in, use your standard rate — assuming an off-peak rate you do not reliably use produces a figure you will never see on a bill.
Does the annual figure account for future price changes?
No. It holds today’s unit rate constant for twelve months. That is our assumption for the purpose of the estimate, not a published forecast — nobody publishes a reliable forward electricity price for households, and a calculator that quietly invents one is worse than one that says it has not.
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Written by
Rob Gibbs
Hi, I'm Rob, and I run Energy-Review.co.uk. I initially started this project in 2018 when I was looking to switch energy suppliers and found there wasn't a website that provided simple, data-backed reviews on all the suppliers available. Since then, I have spent a lot of time (too much, some may say!) looking at all publicly available data about each supplier and writing reviews using this information. These reviews are updated as regularly as possible, and any data is backed up by a source where necessary. I have also started writing guides on various energy-related topics, which hopefully you will find useful. If you find any issues, please use our contact form to let us know.
